{"id":12979,"date":"2026-08-30T11:50:33","date_gmt":"2026-08-30T11:50:33","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.psyctc.org\/pelerinage2016\/?page_id=12979"},"modified":"2026-09-03T18:28:32","modified_gmt":"2026-09-03T18:28:32","slug":"day-22-tuesday-30-8-16-saint-jean-pied-de-port-france-to-zubiri-spain","status":"publish","type":"page","link":"https:\/\/www.psyctc.org\/pelerinage2016\/days\/day-22-tuesday-30-8-16-saint-jean-pied-de-port-france-to-zubiri-spain\/","title":{"rendered":"Day 22.  Tuesday 30\/8\/16. Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port (France) to Zubiri (Spain!)"},"content":{"rendered":"\n<div class=\"leaflet-map WPLeafletMap\" style=\"height:500px; width:100%;\"><\/div><script>\nwindow.WPLeafletMapPlugin = window.WPLeafletMapPlugin || [];\nwindow.WPLeafletMapPlugin.push(function WPLeafletMapShortcode() {\/*<script>*\/\nvar baseUrl = atob('aHR0cHM6Ly90aWxlLm9wZW5zdHJlZXRtYXAub3JnL3t6fS97eH0ve3l9LnBuZw==');\nvar base = (!baseUrl && window.MQ) ?\n    window.MQ.mapLayer() : L.tileLayer(baseUrl,\n        L.Util.extend({}, {\n            detectRetina: 0,\n        },\n        {\"noWrap\":false,\"maxZoom\":19}        )\n    );\n    var options = L.Util.extend({}, {\n        layers: [base],\n        attributionControl: false\n    },\n    {\"zoomControl\":false,\"scrollWheelZoom\":true,\"doubleClickZoom\":false,\"fitBounds\":true,\"minZoom\":0,\"maxZoom\":19,\"maxBounds\":null,\"attribution\":\"<a href=\\\"http:\\\/\\\/leafletjs.com\\\" title=\\\"A JS library for interactive maps\\\">Leaflet<\\\/a>; \\u00a9 <a href=\\\"http:\\\/\\\/www.openstreetmap.org\\\/copyright\\\">OpenStreetMap<\\\/a> contributors\"},\n    {});\nwindow.WPLeafletMapPlugin.createMap(options).setView([44.67,-63.61],12);});<\/script><script>\nwindow.WPLeafletMapPlugin = window.WPLeafletMapPlugin || [];\nwindow.WPLeafletMapPlugin.push(function WPLeafletjsonShortcode() {\/*<script>*\/\nvar src = 'https:\/\/www.psyctc.org\/pelerinage2016\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/20160830.geojson';\nvar default_style = {};\nvar rewrite_keys = {\n    stroke : 'color',\n    'stroke-width' : 'weight',\n    'stroke-opacity' : 'opacity',\n    fill : 'fillColor',\n    'fill-opacity' : 'fillOpacity',\n};\n\/\/ htmlspecialchars converts & to \"&amp;\"; maybe unnecessarily, and maybe 3x\nvar ampersandRegex = \/&(?:amp;){1,3}\/g\nvar layer = L.ajaxGeoJson(src.replace(ampersandRegex, '&'), {\n    type: 'json',\n    style : layerStyle,\n    onEachFeature : onEachFeature,\n    pointToLayer: pointToLayer\n});\nvar fitbounds = 0;\nvar circleMarker = 0;\nvar popup_text = window.WPLeafletMapPlugin.unescape(\"\");\nvar popup_property = \"\";\nvar table_view = 0;\nvar group = window.WPLeafletMapPlugin.getCurrentGroup();\nvar markerOptions = window.WPLeafletMapPlugin.getIconOptions({});\nlayer.addTo( group );\nwindow.WPLeafletMapPlugin.geojsons.push( layer );\nif (fitbounds) {\n    layer.on('ready', function () {\n        this.map.fitBounds( this.getBounds() );\n    });\n}\nfunction layerStyle (feature) {\n    var props = feature.properties || {};\n    var style = {};\n    function camelFun (_, first_letter) {\n        return first_letter.toUpperCase();\n    };\n    for (var key in props) {\n        if (key.match('-')) {\n            var camelcase = key.replace(\/-(\\w)\/, camelFun);\n            style[ camelcase ] = props[ key ];\n        }\n        \/\/ rewrite style keys from geojson.io\n        if (rewrite_keys[ key ]) {\n            style[ rewrite_keys[ key ] ] = props[ key ];\n        }\n    }\n    return L.Util.extend(style, default_style);\n}\nfunction onEachFeature (feature, layer) {\n    var props = feature.properties || {};\n    var text;\n    if (table_view) {\n        text = window.WPLeafletMapPlugin.propsToTable(props);\n    } else {\n        text = popup_property\n            ? props[ popup_property ]\n            : window.WPLeafletMapPlugin.template(\n                popup_text, \n                feature.properties\n            );\n    }\n    if (text) {\n        layer.bindPopup( text );\n    }\n}\n    function pointToLayer (feature, latlng) {\n    if (circleMarker) {\n        return L.circleMarker(latlng);\n    }\n    return L.marker(latlng, markerOptions);\n}});<\/script><script>\nwindow.WPLeafletMapPlugin = window.WPLeafletMapPlugin || [];\nwindow.WPLeafletMapPlugin.push(function WPLeafletMarkerShortcode() {\/*<script>*\/\nvar map = window.WPLeafletMapPlugin.getCurrentMap();\nvar group = window.WPLeafletMapPlugin.getCurrentGroup();\nvar marker_options = window.WPLeafletMapPlugin.getIconOptions({\"title\":\"Pelota court\"});\nvar marker = L.marker(\n    [43.165,-1.2444],\n    marker_options\n);\nvar is_image = map.is_image_map;\nif (marker_options.draggable) {\n    marker.on('dragend', function () {\n        var latlng = this.getLatLng();\n        var lat = latlng.lat;\n        var lng = latlng.lng;\n        if (is_image) {\n            console.log('leaflet-marker y=' + lat + ' x=' + lng);\n        } else {\n            console.log('leaflet-marker lat=' + lat + ' lng=' + lng);\n        }\n    });\n}\nmarker.addTo( group );\nmarker.bindPopup(window.WPLeafletMapPlugin.unescape('https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Basque_pelota'));window.WPLeafletMapPlugin.markers.push( marker );\n        });<\/script><script>\nwindow.WPLeafletMapPlugin = window.WPLeafletMapPlugin || [];\nwindow.WPLeafletMapPlugin.push(function WPLeafletMarkerShortcode() {\/*<script>*\/\nvar map = window.WPLeafletMapPlugin.getCurrentMap();\nvar group = window.WPLeafletMapPlugin.getCurrentGroup();\nvar marker_options = window.WPLeafletMapPlugin.getIconOptions({\"title\":\"Basque house\"});\nvar marker = L.marker(\n    [43.15707,-1.256989],\n    marker_options\n);\nvar is_image = map.is_image_map;\nif (marker_options.draggable) {\n    marker.on('dragend', function () {\n        var latlng = this.getLatLng();\n        var lat = latlng.lat;\n        var lng = latlng.lng;\n        if (is_image) {\n            console.log('leaflet-marker y=' + lat + ' x=' + lng);\n        } else {\n            console.log('leaflet-marker lat=' + lat + ' lng=' + lng);\n        }\n    });\n}\nmarker.addTo( group );\nmarker.bindPopup(window.WPLeafletMapPlugin.unescape('Basque house'));window.WPLeafletMapPlugin.markers.push( marker );\n        });<\/script>[hover ][zoomhomemap ][gestures ]\n\n\n\n<script>\nwindow.WPLeafletMapPlugin = window.WPLeafletMapPlugin || [];\nwindow.WPLeafletMapPlugin.push(function () {\n\tvar map = window.WPLeafletMapPlugin.getCurrentMap();\n\tif ( WPLeafletMapPlugin.markers.length > 0 ) {\n\t\tfor (var i = 0; i < WPLeafletMapPlugin.markers.length; i++) {\n\t\t\tvar a = WPLeafletMapPlugin.markers[i];\n\t\t\ta.on(\"click\", function (e) {\n\t\t\t\tif (typeof e.sourceTarget.getPopup() != \"undefined\") {\n\t\t\t\t\ta.url = e.sourceTarget.getPopup().getContent();\n\t\t\t\t\twindow.location = (a.url);\n\t\t\t\t}\n\t\t\t});\n\t\t}\n\t}\n});\n<\/script><p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Well one of the lessons of this return to the pelerinage is how mixed my memory's completeness and accuracy is.  I do remember that at some point early in this day I said to myself, well, to the bike \"We're not in Kansas anymore Toto\" and that was the point at which the bike acquired its name: Toto.  I think that might have been seeing these signs.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><a href=\"https:\/\/www.psyctc.org\/pelerinage2016\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/09\/20160830_113408.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"576\" src=\"https:\/\/www.psyctc.org\/pelerinage2016\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/09\/20160830_113408-1024x576.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-13068\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.psyctc.org\/pelerinage2016\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/09\/20160830_113408-1024x576.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/www.psyctc.org\/pelerinage2016\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/09\/20160830_113408-300x169.jpg 300w, https:\/\/www.psyctc.org\/pelerinage2016\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/09\/20160830_113408-768x432.jpg 768w, https:\/\/www.psyctc.org\/pelerinage2016\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/09\/20160830_113408-1536x864.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/www.psyctc.org\/pelerinage2016\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/09\/20160830_113408-2048x1152.jpg 2048w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><\/a><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Not only were signs no longer in French but they were a mix of Basque and Spanish!  Even before I was out of Saint-Jean I saw my first <a href=\"https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Basque_pelota\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Pelota court<\/a>.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"576\" src=\"https:\/\/www.psyctc.org\/pelerinage2016\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/09\/20160830_103621-1024x576.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-13075\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.psyctc.org\/pelerinage2016\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/09\/20160830_103621-1024x576.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/www.psyctc.org\/pelerinage2016\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/09\/20160830_103621-300x169.jpg 300w, https:\/\/www.psyctc.org\/pelerinage2016\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/09\/20160830_103621-768x432.jpg 768w, https:\/\/www.psyctc.org\/pelerinage2016\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/09\/20160830_103621-1536x864.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/www.psyctc.org\/pelerinage2016\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/09\/20160830_103621-2048x1152.jpg 2048w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">But this was familiar Saint-Jean as I left.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><a href=\"https:\/\/www.psyctc.org\/pelerinage2016\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/09\/20160830_094929.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"576\" src=\"https:\/\/www.psyctc.org\/pelerinage2016\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/09\/20160830_094929-1024x576.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-13069\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.psyctc.org\/pelerinage2016\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/09\/20160830_094929-1024x576.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/www.psyctc.org\/pelerinage2016\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/09\/20160830_094929-300x169.jpg 300w, https:\/\/www.psyctc.org\/pelerinage2016\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/09\/20160830_094929-768x432.jpg 768w, https:\/\/www.psyctc.org\/pelerinage2016\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/09\/20160830_094929-1536x864.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/www.psyctc.org\/pelerinage2016\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/09\/20160830_094929-2048x1152.jpg 2048w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><\/a><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">But, as you can see from the map, I started off in the wrong direction!  You can also see the France\/Spain border on the map above.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">I was immediately into very different architecture that I know is found in Basque parts of France as well as in Basque Spain but which hadn't been visible on the ride up to Saint-Jean nor is it particularly visible in the centre of the town.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><a href=\"https:\/\/www.psyctc.org\/pelerinage2016\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/09\/20160830_110511.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"576\" src=\"https:\/\/www.psyctc.org\/pelerinage2016\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/09\/20160830_110511-1024x576.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-13076\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.psyctc.org\/pelerinage2016\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/09\/20160830_110511-1024x576.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/www.psyctc.org\/pelerinage2016\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/09\/20160830_110511-300x169.jpg 300w, https:\/\/www.psyctc.org\/pelerinage2016\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/09\/20160830_110511-768x432.jpg 768w, https:\/\/www.psyctc.org\/pelerinage2016\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/09\/20160830_110511-1536x864.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/www.psyctc.org\/pelerinage2016\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/09\/20160830_110511-2048x1152.jpg 2048w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><\/a><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Though it feels as if it ought to be, this church is not on the border.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><a href=\"https:\/\/www.psyctc.org\/pelerinage2016\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/09\/20160830_134337-rotated-1.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"576\" height=\"1024\" src=\"https:\/\/www.psyctc.org\/pelerinage2016\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/09\/20160830_134337-576x1024-1.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-13082\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.psyctc.org\/pelerinage2016\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/09\/20160830_134337-576x1024-1.jpg 576w, https:\/\/www.psyctc.org\/pelerinage2016\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/09\/20160830_134337-169x300.jpg 169w, https:\/\/www.psyctc.org\/pelerinage2016\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/09\/20160830_134337-243x432-1.jpg 243w, https:\/\/www.psyctc.org\/pelerinage2016\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/09\/20160830_134337-1152x2048-1.jpg 1152w, https:\/\/www.psyctc.org\/pelerinage2016\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/09\/20160830_134337-864x1536-1.jpg 864w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 576px) 100vw, 576px\" \/><\/a><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">That was curiously rather grim and also brave.  I don't think there was much if any actual rain (there's that hole in my memories again) but I do remember that it was cold and damp.  <\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">That header image is interesting talking of memory (is everyone else's like mine, I think in recent years I have realised that different people's memory processes can work very differently).  It's interesting as, as I look at it, whereas I had no memory of it a moment ago, now I can almost see and feel the gravel that was there where I stopped, probably to slurp up some fluid and take that image.  Hm, triggered recall can be quite powerful.  <\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><a href=\"https:\/\/www.psyctc.org\/pelerinage2016\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/09\/20160830_125349.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"576\" src=\"https:\/\/www.psyctc.org\/pelerinage2016\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/09\/20160830_125349-1024x576.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-13083\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.psyctc.org\/pelerinage2016\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/09\/20160830_125349-1024x576.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/www.psyctc.org\/pelerinage2016\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/09\/20160830_125349-300x169.jpg 300w, https:\/\/www.psyctc.org\/pelerinage2016\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/09\/20160830_125349-768x432.jpg 768w, https:\/\/www.psyctc.org\/pelerinage2016\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/09\/20160830_125349-1536x864.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/www.psyctc.org\/pelerinage2016\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/09\/20160830_125349-2048x1152.jpg 2048w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><\/a><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">It was mostly downhill after a while but still quite gruelling work.  I called it a day and checked into a little hotel\/motel in Zubiri and was happy to find the bed OK and the food simple but excellent.  Thanks whoever you were!<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"has-small-font-size wp-block-paragraph\">Created 3.ix.26.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>Well one of the lessons of this return to the pelerinage is how mixed my memory&#8217;s completeness and accuracy is. I do remember that at some point early in this day I said to myself, well, to the bike &#8220;We&#8217;re not in Kansas anymore Toto&#8221; and that was the point at which the bike acquired &hellip; <a href=\"https:\/\/www.psyctc.org\/pelerinage2016\/days\/day-22-tuesday-30-8-16-saint-jean-pied-de-port-france-to-zubiri-spain\/\" class=\"more-link\">Continue reading <span class=\"screen-reader-text\">Day 22.  Tuesday 30\/8\/16. Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port (France) to Zubiri (Spain!)<\/span><\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":13085,"parent":6,"menu_order":0,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","template":"","meta":{"footnotes":""},"class_list":["post-12979","page","type-page","status-publish","has-post-thumbnail","hentry"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.psyctc.org\/pelerinage2016\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/pages\/12979","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.psyctc.org\/pelerinage2016\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/pages"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.psyctc.org\/pelerinage2016\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/page"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.psyctc.org\/pelerinage2016\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.psyctc.org\/pelerinage2016\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=12979"}],"version-history":[{"count":9,"href":"https:\/\/www.psyctc.org\/pelerinage2016\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/pages\/12979\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":13087,"href":"https:\/\/www.psyctc.org\/pelerinage2016\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/pages\/12979\/revisions\/13087"}],"up":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.psyctc.org\/pelerinage2016\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/pages\/6"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.psyctc.org\/pelerinage2016\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/13085"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.psyctc.org\/pelerinage2016\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=12979"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}